Copenhagen

The country’s capital and quite possibly the unofficial “7-11 Capital of the World” (Tokyo’s a close 2nd, but only because they don’t have as many locations in close proximity…they also don’t have bottles of vodka for sale, but we’ll talk about Tokyo in the Japan section! ;), Copenhagen is situated on 2 islands – across the Øresund Strait from Malmö (in southern Sweden) – and is home to roughly 2 million people.    

Similar to its Swedish counterparts, Copenhagen is picturesque, green, and full of history (though some of the streets neighbouring the central train station can be a bit seedy). And as it is in most Scandinavian countries, things are a bit pricey, thanks to the country’s high taxes. It’s also the only city I’ve ever visited, where the restaurants charge you for tap water!  Or, at least they did in the city center…

Suggested duration of stay:  Much like Stockholm, I’d say you’ll need about 3 days to get a feel for the city and have a decent look around (longer, if you’re a museum enthusiast).  

Getting there and around:  

Air: Kastrup is Copenhagen’s main international airport – located just outside of the city center.  The fastest way to travel between Kastrup and Copenhagen Central Station is by train (~13 mins), but there’s also the options of the metro, bus, or taxi, if you’re staying further out.

Rail:  If you’re coming in from Sweden, the SJ intercity, high-speed train (X2000) arrives at Copenhagen Central via the unique Øresund Bridge – which starts out as a typical suspension bridge, on the Malmö side, but then connects to a man-made island and seemingly disappears into the sea, halfway across the sound (…it actually connects to a tunnel that surfaces in the outskirts of Copenhagen, but it looks a bit freaky, when you’re looking out of the window and notice you’re descending towards the water)! 

The ride from Stockholm is about 6 hrs (or 35 mins from Malmö) and there are 2 wheelchair spots (“rullstolsplats”) on these trains, located in 2nd class. There are also 2 additional seats (next to the wheelchair spots & close to the washrooms) for those with mobility impairments, who are ambulatory. If you require assistance boarding the train, let the SJ ticketing agent know in advance, so they can make the necessary arrangements.    

Once you’re in the city, Copenhagen has a reliable transit system of accessible buses – with hop on/off privileges – and a fairly-accessible subway system too (I don’t believe all of the stops have lifts/elevators, but the main ones do).  Again, I opted to zip around myself and enjoy the scenery/get some exercise, as Copenhagen is great for that! 🙂 

What I saw:

Strøget – One of Europe’s largest pedestrian streets, with a multitude of shops, restaurants, and pubs.  It runs from City Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv (“King’s New Square”) and passes the Church of the Holy Spirit and Storkespringvandet (“The Stork Fountain”).   

Nyhavn – Next door to Kongens Nytorv (“King’s New Square”) and the picturesque Royal Danish Theatre (known as the ‘Old Stage’), the “New Harbour” has always been a popular place to gather.  Formerly a busy commercial port, dating back to the 1600’s, it has maintained many of its historic buildings and is now home to several outdoor restaurants & bars, which surround the marina.  It’s a great place to people watch, relax, and soak up the sun, either on a patio or by the water.   

 

 

Skuespilhuset – Completed in 2008, the “Royal Danish Playhouse” is located at the end of Nyhavn Canal, on the waterfront…literally, as 40% of the building is built over the water (which factors into the heating and cooling of the building)!  It is part of the Royal Danish Theatre and was built because the ‘Old Stage’ wasn’t conducive to the spoken drama of contemporary theatre.  It has received several architectural accolades and the oak-planked promenade around its waterfront perimeter serves as a walkway & patio, with a cafe/restaurant and great views of the harbour and opera house.

The Little Mermaid – Based on the famous Hans Christian Andersen story, this little bronze statue is over 100 years old and has gone through a lot, during her century at Langelinje Pier:  Decapitation (twice!), lost limbs, covered in paint, dressed up in various clothes/costumes…phallic toys strapped to her head (according to a couple of online sources)!  Even more reason to take a stroll by the waterside and see what that crazy little mermaid is up to (~ 4km from Copenhagen Central Station ;).  Or, if you have $3600-$102,000 USD to burn, you can order your own version of the statue.

 

 

 

Gefion Fountain – Next door to the gothic St. Alban’s Church and within falling distance of The Little Mermaid, this massive, bronze fountain depicts the Norse Goddess Gefion plowing the sea with 4 oxen (said to be her sons, transformed).

Tivoli Gardens – Located in central Copenhagen, between the City Hall Square and Central Station, this amusement park first opened in 1843 – making it the 2nd oldest amusement park in the world. Among its rides are the oldest still operating rollercoaster ‘Rutschebanen’  (from 1915) and ferris wheel (1943). Tivoli Gardens also serves as a venue for various performing arts and is an active part of the cultural scene in Copenhagen. Accessibility is decent, but the restaurants inside the park are over-priced (so eat beforehand, or wait until after).

 

 

Freetown Christiania – Founded by hippies in 1971, this Bohemian neighbourhood was originally a military base that was taken over by squatters. It doesn’t allow cars, has a huge artistic presence, maintains that it’s not part of the E.U., and openly sells weed/hash, as well as organic food, crafts, and other hand-made things (jewelry). Be sure to read (and obey) the rules, before entering – especially the one that says “no photography” (the following pics were snapped outside of the main entrance, so relax ;)! 

Carlsberg Museum – Denmark’s most famous export – take a tour of the historical and modern brewery, with 2 drinks included in the price of admission. It’s roughly 2.5 km from Copenhagen Central and situated on top of a hill, so any fellow ass-carters that decide to follow my lead and make that trek under your own power will DEFINITELY work up enough of a thirst to enjoy both drinks. 😉 

 

Botanical Garden – Home to more than 13,000 species of plants and a 16 meter-high glass house/greenhouse (from the 1800’s), the garden is a part of the Natural History Museum, at the University of Copenhagen. As such, it’s more than just a tourist attraction – it is also used for educational and research purposes.

Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) – A popular public square that’s used for events, demonstrations, and celebrations – it connects to Strøget and also houses one of the city’s main bus centrals.

Søerne – “The Lakes” are man-made, recreational bodies of water that curve around the western portion of the city.  The total distance around them is 6.4 km, so they’re popular amongst walkers & joggers, but there’s also 2 artificial islands that act as bird sanctuaries, so it’s a great place to relax and unwind.   

Sam’s Bar –  If you’re looking to head out and sing with some friends, or maybe make some new ones, there are 2 locations – both on Strøget – that will help quench your karaoke & biological thirst! 😉 I found the location that’s closer to Nyhavn/New King’s Square to be less crammed and have a better layout, though you’ll have to find an accessible bathroom elsewhere, in either case.

  

Where I stayed (year):

Scandic Hotel Copenhagen (2009) – Possibly one of the most consistent hotel chains, where Scandinavian sensibility & minimalist design (some might label it “IKEA-esque”) reign supreme.  This property is centrally-located (less than 1 km from Central Station) and follows the Scandic model of including a buffet breakfast, an exercise room & sauna, and above-average accessibility, in their adapted rooms (i.e. well-planned layout, several grab bars, lowered switches/hangers, other alarm/security features, etc.).  The furniture makes it tough to access the windows and you’ll need to bring your own shower bench.  Rating: 4.25/5

 

 

 

Imperial Hotel (2008) – Great location (about 500 meters from Central Station) & nice facilities.  From what I remember, the bed and room were alright – despite having a vintage motorcycle outside of the window (part of the building facade/decor). But the bathroom had some layout issues, not many grab bars, and my shower bench couldn’t fit in the tub (ledge was too high for it to straddle & touch the floor), so I had to transfer into the tub and sit down on the tub floor.  Rating: 3/5

Comfort Hotel Vesterbro (formerly “First Hotel Vesterbro”, in 2009) – Located in a trendy section of central Copenhagen, this property has recently been renovated and re-branded, so I can’t comment on accessibility or rate the hotel fairly.  The entrance, lobby, and accessible room were good before, but I don’t see anything about wheelchair access or rooms on their site (or hotel booking sites) any more.  Too bad, if that’s the case.  It was on a main street and had restaurants, a grocery store, and shops nearby. Rating: n/a