Kyoto

Once you’re in the city, there are a limited number of JR (Japan Rail) train lines and unfortunately, they’ll only get you to a few of the popular tourist spots (like Nijo Castle and Arashiyama).  Buses and subways (to a lesser extent) will get you closer to the main points of interest, in this beautiful city.  I say ‘closer’ because most of the popular temples and shrines in Kyoto are located in the foothills or outskirts, so you generally get dropped off about 1-2 km away and then have to make your way from there…usually uphill!  But the great thing about this city is that you’re treated to so many quaint shops and other smaller attractions, along the way (or within close proximity).  It truly is the best ‘walking city’ in the country!  But if these kinds of strolls aren’t for you, or aren’t physically possible, a taxi will likely be your best option.   

As I’ve mentioned previously, be aware that some of the JR trains are not flush/level with the platform!  If you have trouble negotiating a 3-4″ (7-10 cm) height differential, you should let the attendants know, when you arrive at the station.  They will assist you with a ramp to get on the train and will call ahead to your destination, to ensure that an attendant with a ramp is ready to help you off too (I’m able to do a wheelie and use the handle on the inside of the doors to pull myself in).  And if you don’t see an elevator at a particular station, don’t be afraid to buzz for an attendant and ask for help.  They may be able to help you via the escalator or even carrying you, if there are enough hands available (the latter has only ever happened to me in Tokyo and there have always been working elevators at the stations I’ve been to).     

What I saw:

Kiyomizu-dera – The “pure water temple” is a must see, even though it’s one of the hardest to get to in a ‘chair – thanks to the crazy inclines you’ll encounter (it’s in the foothills, so you may want to bring a spotter along for this workout ;).  But once you finally make it to this historic UNESCO World Heritage site, you’ll not only feel as if you’ve trained hard enough to become Batman (the temple was featured in the first Christian Bale/Dark Knight movie), but you’ll also see one of Japan’s most celebrated temples and have a spectacular view of the city of Kyoto! And even though the roof of the main hall is currently surrounded by scaffolding and is undergoing restoration (until March 2020), the hall and everything else is still open to the public, so there’s plenty of other photo ops/things to see (e.g. Otowa Waterfall, Jishu Shrine, Okunoin Hall, etc.).  

Nijo Castle – Home to the first shogun of the Edo Period, this castle was built in 1603 and is another UNESCO World Heritage site.  Unfortunately, you’re not allowed to take photos inside the main palace (Ninomaru), as there’s artwork and designs on the interior walls that they’re trying to preserve.  The castle also has wooden “nightingale floors” (i.e. sounds like birds chirping, when you walk across them), which were designed to alert the residents of any intruders.  For those of you bringing your own ‘chair to the castle, you can expect a thorough washing of your wheels before you’ll be permitted inside (ambulatory visitors have to remove their shoes).  The main garden outside of the palace is stunning, as are the trees and their foliage in the surrounding gardens, during the spring and autumn.  For those of you with mobility devices:  The pathways surrounding the main palace are all loose gravel, so be prepared for a bit of a workout.

Imperial Palace – Centrally-located, in the nearly 1 square km Kyoto Imperial Park, the Imperial Palace was home to Japan’s Royal Family until 1868.  And while you can’t go inside the palace itself, there are certain days during the month when they’ll slide open the doors, so the public can peek inside and take pictures of the interior.  And even if you can’t visit on one of those days, there’s still enough to see in and around the grounds.  Just beware, if you’re using a mobility device, as the pathways around the main palace buildings are mainly loose gravel.  Thankfully, the park paths are smoother and much easier to negotiate.  

Gion – The juxtaposition between this historic section of the city and the modern buildings and shops that neighbour it to the west, gives you the feeling that you’ve traveled hundreds of years through time, just by turning a corner!  Throw in the Edo architecture, preserved machiya houses that now serve as (expensive!) restaurants, and the opportunity to see actual geisha heading to work at the ochaya (tea houses) – usually around 4:30-5pm – and this becomes yet another “must-visit” destination.  If you wander down some of the smaller side streets, you might be able to see the houses where the geisha reside – made noticeable by the credentials hanging over the door.  And if you aren’t lucky enough to see one on the streets, or can’t afford/make arrangements to be entertained by them at a tea house, you can pay to see their apprentices (maiko) perform at the ‘Gion Corner’ cultural centre (the show is about an hour long).  

 

Kinkakuji (Gold Pavilion) – Located in north Kyoto, this small, serene attraction is one of the most popular destinations in Kyoto because hey – how often do you see a building seemingly made of gold?  Unfortunately, the interior of this retirement-villa-turned-Zen-temple is off limits to visitors and there’s also a staircase/uphill portion on the surrounding path that pretty much rules out anybody with a mobility impairment. Thankfully, it’s a very small section and the rest of path around the structure itself is up-close and flat, so you don’t really miss much. 

Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) – This ‘misnamed’ zen temple is in the city’s eastern foothills and was built by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, as his retirement villa, in the late 1400’s.  Much like its gold counterpart (built by his grandfather), you cannot enter or see inside of the pavilion, but its exterior and surroundings make it worth the trip.  There is a sand and moss garden, trees, ponds, and a path that goes up the hillside to offer a beautiful aerial vantage point of Ginkakuji and part of the city as well.  Unfortunately, this latter portion of the footpath has stairs, so it’s not possible to enjoy this part of the tour with a mobility device. But the rest of it is still worth checking out, as you can see from the pictures.

Nanzenji – One of the most important Buddhist temples in Japan (head of the Rinzai Sect), it was built in the 13th century by Emperor Kameyama and is located in the foothills of the Higashiyama mountains, at the southern end of Philosopher’s Walk. There’s quite a bit to see here – from the towering Sanmon gate, Hojo (main temple), Hatto (hall that’s not open to the public), several sub-temples, and the huge (in size and significance) brick aqueduct. Sadly, there aren’t any ramps or lifts up to the gate’s balcony, or inside the main hall, but I was fortunate enough (some might say blessed 😉 to have a few Buddhist monks give me a hand up the 7 or 8 stairs of Hojo’s main entrance (I wheelied and got a push over the building’s raised threshold).  Once inside, everything is either level or has a minor step up or down, but it’s worth it as you’re treated to Hojo’s famous rock garden, fusuma (i.e. gold leaf paintings on sliding doors), the natural beauty of the foothills, and for a few hundred yen more – a small tea room (near the entrance) with a serene view of a miniature waterfall. 

Philosopher’s Walk – This picturesque, 2 km path runs from Ginkakuji to Nanzenji, in the northern section of the Higashiyama District.  It follows a canal that’s lined with cherry blossom trees, small shops, and restaurants – making it one of the most pleasant strolls and hanami spots in the city! Accessibility along the path ranges from decent to good, as the surface varies from brick and light gravel to fully-paved.   

 

Nishiki Market – Located in central Kyoto, this covered market is a few blocks in length and has hundreds of stalls/shops that sell food and food-related items (cookware, knives, tea/sake sets), seasonal delicacies, and household items. 

Pontocho – A narrow alley with several restaurants – varying in price and cuisine.  Some of the restaurants have a great view of the Kamogawa River, but you’ll pay handsomely for it and accessibility is quite poor. Still worth a look, when you’re in the area! 

Arashiyama – This picturesque area is located in Kyoto’s west end and is 5 stops from Kyoto Station, on the JR line (exit Saga-Arashiyama station and walk about 500m).  There’s the beautiful Katsura river, mountains, bamboo groves, a monkey park, small shops/restaurants, and of course a few more temples (Tenryu-ji is the most prominent one, but only the grounds are accessible).  You can rent bicycles or pleasure boats, to further explore this beautiful area, or take it all in from the iconic Togetsukyo (“Moon Crossing”) Bridge and stroll at your own pace.  Definitely worth checking out at any time, but it even more scenic during cherry blossom season and in autumn!

Kodaiji – Situated in the Higashiyama District, not far from Kiyomizudera, this temple was established in 1606 – in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. As with other Zen Buddhist temples, the designs are lavish and so are the gardens.  You can also visit at night, during the spring and fall illuminations and no word of a lie – I must’ve stared at the pond for a good 5 minutes (along with everybody else in attendance) because you could see a perfect reflection of the illuminated foliage in the still water (I swear, it looked like a mirror and I almost tossed in a stone out of sheer disbelief)! Much like Kiyomizu-dera, the only negative is having to negotiate a rather steep hill to get there.  But, on the plus side, you get to enjoy some of the older houses and architecture on route, in the preserved historic district (and you can exit with a ‘chair in record time ;).        

Kyoto Station – Before you start to wonder whether I’ve placed this in the wrong section, or lost my mind (which isn’t entirely out of the realm of possibility! ;), take a quick glance down at the accompanying pictures because this massive building is a site to behold!  It stands roughly 14 stories high, has open-air observation areas, a catwalk (“Skyway”) with unique views of the city & station, 2 floors of restaurants (on the 11th and 12th floors, I believe), and a built-in hotel (Hotel Granvia Kyoto).  If you’re not sure where to dine and you’re in the area, check out the aforementioned restaurants on the upper floors.  There’s something for every budget and some of the south-facing ones offer a nice view.

Maruyama Park – A very popular park – especially during cherry blossom season (and in the fall too, I suppose). I entered the park from the north, after visiting Nanzenji, and found out the hard way that there isn’t a ramp at the park’s main west entrance – only a big flight of stairs.  But I was lucky enough to have somebody offer my girlfriend and I a hand in getting me down them (…while her boyfriend watched…who says chivalry is dead?!?).  Anyway, there are several food kiosks in the park, if you’d like something to eat, while you’re enjoying your brush with nature. 

Toji Temple – The “East Temple” is about a 10 minute walk south of Kyoto Station, this Shingon (Japanese Buddhist) temple has 2 halls (Kondo and Kodo) that date back to the Edo Period, a 5 storey pagoda – making it Japan’s tallest – and a lovely garden.  Unfortunately, for ‘chair users, you won’t be able to enter any of the structures without some hands to give you a lift, but the grounds & garden are nice.  Just make sure you approach the temple from the north (it’s a smaller street, next door to a school), as the other entrances aren’t accessible.

Iga-Ueno – A nice day trip, Iga is famous for its ninja (…yes, you read that correctly…and if you were excited about it, there’s a 95% chance that you’re male ;)!  During the Feudal Era, Iga was home to a famous ninja school and clan, but today, it is home to the Iga Ninja Museum and Ueno Castle – both located in Ueno Park.  And in true ninja form, it takes a deceptively-long time to get there by train (roughly 2 hrs), thanks in large part to the single car and once-per-hour service on the JR Kansai Line, from Kamo Station (which is quite scenic to start, as it winds through a valley that has plenty of trees and a river running through it).  Once you arrive at JR Iga-Ueno Station, the local Iga Line (Uenoshi Station) is the best way to reach the park, even though it will cost you extra, since it’s a private line and not part of the Japan Rail network.  It’s either that or set off on a 2.5 km hike – which I did, inadvertently, as I didn’t notice any signs for the Iga line.  What I did find out was that the 2 bus routes servicing the JR station aren’t wheelchair accessible (and there weren’t any taxis waiting at the station either).  But that aside, no matter how you get there, the Ninja Museum is entertaining, interactive, and educational! 

It starts off with a guided tour of the ninja house, where they show you all of the hiding places and trap doors that were used, then you proceed on your own to the museum section downstairs. Those of you with mobility devices will have to view the house from the outside (which is fine, as the exterior wall is paneled and slides open) and then use the individual lift in the service area, to reach the museum section downstairs.  And DEFINITELY check out the ninja show/demonstration, if it’s happening when you’re there! It’s only an extra 400 yen and you will get to see weapon play and Ninjutsu demonstrations, with some photo ops thrown in too (as you can see below).       

Where I stayed (year):

New Miyako Hotel (2015 – room 1347) – Across the road from Kyoto Station’s south (Hachijoguchi) exit, this modern hotel consists of 2 buildings, has several restaurants (including a buffet), and other on-site amenities, yet it isn’t overly expensive!  The only downfall in staying here has absolutely nothing to do with the hotel, but rather the length of time and number of elevators required to get from the south side of Kyoto Station to the north (where the local buses and majority of the sites are located).  But given that you have to cross over roughly 40 sets of train tracks, it makes perfect sense (you can’t go around them either). I just found it a bit confusing, when I first arrived, and had to ask around, as it’s not clearly marked.  The trick was finding the elevator that’s close to the shinkansen entrance (follow the tactile paving, as it’s just south of there and hidden around a corner), as it takes you from the 2nd floor to the street level concourse.  Pillars and inadequate signage on that level make it equally hard to find, so take note and landmark, when you do. 🙂 

Accessibility at the hotel is great, as there are sliding doors to enter the building, multiple elevators, and the accessible room has a sliding door for the bathroom with several grab bars inside.  Just beware the (typically) hard beds and slightly-raised bathroom door track.  Rating 4.25/5

Kyoto Tokyu Hotel (2009) – Approximately 1 km from Kyoto Station and about a 10 minute walk from Tambaguchi JR Station (there’s also a shuttle bus from Kyoto Stn, but it wasn’t accessible, when I stayed there), this hotel has several restaurants/bars and other onsite amenities.  There’s only 1 accessible room, so request it well in advance, if you’re looking to stay here! It’s comprised of 2 neighbouring rooms because the bathroom in the main room has a step down for some unknown reason.  So, basically, the adjoining room is the accessible portion and consists of a small hallway and a HUGE, modern bathroom (which always comes in handy, if you’re travelling with somebody else).  As with most places in Japan, showering takes place outside of the tub, so you’ll need to bring a chair/bench, if standing or high jumping into the big soaker tub isn’t an option.  Rating 4.25/5

Random pics: