Amsterdam

Ahhh…Amsterdam! What can I say about it that you don’t already know?  I guess different images come to mind, depending on your demographic.  For some, it’s windmills, dykes and tulips (you won’t see either of the first two in the city).  For foodies, it’s cheese, Indonesian food, Dutch fries and pancakes (all very good – you should try them & have some chocomel too!).  And for the rest, it’s the debaucherous side of Amsterdam: The Red Light District, the infamous ‘coffee shops’/cafés…and maybe throw in some museums just in case your family or boss asks about your vacation. 😉  Either way, there’s a little something for everyone, in A’dam!

Accessibility wise, things are hit-and-miss, given the age of the city centre and many of its buildings.  Even walking/strolling through that section can be a bit tricky at times, since there are numerous bridges arching over countless canals.  And for an added degree of difficulty, you should try negotiating those inclines & downhills with a shower bench and backpack stacked on your lap, while cutting through a crowded Red Light District, on a busy Saturday night. Yes, there’s nothing like searching for your hotel and trying not to run over the slow-moving hoards of men that aren’t paying attention because they’re gawking at the scantily-clad women, in neon-lit windows! But that’s enough about my Amsterdam indoctrination.  Let me know how you fare and if you get any style points from the Russian judge. 😉  

Once you’re outside of the city center (i.e. the 1.5 km area surrounding the train station), it’s actually a bit easier to get around, as you no longer have the canals to contend with and the buildings and walkways are a little more modern.      

Suggested duration of stay:  Depending on how much trouble you’re looking to get yourself into, I’d say 3 days should do the trick and give you a chance to explore the city a bit.  Of course, if you’re planning to spend a chunk of time in the coffee shops (I’m not here to judge! ;), you may want to tack on another day or two, as there are some really good museums and other places to check out.  

 

Getting there and around:

Schiphol Airport (AMS) is Amsterdam’s main airport and the hub for KLM Airlines (one of my favourite airlines because their service and prices are equally amazing – with free stop-overs in Amsterdam!).  I’m pretty sure it’s also home to one of the most remote landing strips in the world because every time I’ve landed there, the plane has had to taxi for over 10 mins to get anywhere close to the terminal!  

That aside, Schiphol has several shops and restaurants – plus a railway station that connects you to the city and rest of the country, once you exit the terminal.  Just make sure to be patient, if you’re taking the train into ‘Amsterdam Centraal’ with a mobility device, as it’s NOT possible to board the train on your own!  The station attendants (who wear red hats) need to get manual lifts/ramps in place – on both ends of your journey – in order for you to get you on & off the train. And even though the ride itself is less than 20 mins, this usually takes about an hour to coordinate – sometimes longer, if you’re trying to travel during rush hour, as those trains are packed with commuters.  In these instances, they’ll make you wait until after the rush is over, before letting you board. So depending on when you arrive, you could be enjoying Schiphol a little longer than originally anticipated (you’ve been forewarned! ;).  

The price for the train is 4.50 Euros each way (check the link for schedule and pricing) and definitely make sure that you speak to the rail attendants in Amsterdam Centraal (at the information kiosk, sometime during your stay), in order to arrange boarding assistance for your return trip.  If you don’t do it in ahead of time, you could be waiting another hour or so for them to set everything up and risk being late for your flight!

Once you’re in the city, there’s a series of trams and buses to help you get around.  I’ve personally never used them, so I can’t really comment on the accessibility, but according to their website (and from what I’ve seen) they appear to be lower to the ground and have ramps, though not at all tram stops.

 

What I saw: 

Anne Frank House – Author of the world’s most famous diary, Anne Frank and her family hid from the Nazi’s in a concealed annex, in this house-turned-museum, during the German occupation of Amsterdam in the 1940’s. Wheelchair accessibility is restricted to the newer sections of the museum, so you won’t see the aforementioned annex (as it’s up a narrow set of stairs) and a museum attendant will have to take you through a special side entrance.  The ticket office is also downstairs, so seek out a staff member immediately, when you arrive (they found me in the line-up and pulled me out).      

Heineken Experience – If I may borrow & bastardize their competition’s slogan for a moment, it’s probably the best brewery tour in the world (at least out of the ones I’ve done: Carlsberg in Copenhagen, Guinness in Dublin, Ebisu in Tokyo, and Steamwhistle in Toronto).  Where else can you be ‘turned into a beer’ and then enjoy “yourself”, later on? The interactive tour starts off by taking you through the brewing process, in the form of a small ride/video presentation, then includes some nice walk-throughs detailing the brewery’s history and even a section where you can DJ – culminating in a tasting/lounge area, where you can to relax & enjoy 2 Heineken beers.  Cost when I went was 15 Euros, but you can get a discount if you book ahead online, or find a coupon in a tourist brochure.  

 

Red Light District – aka “De Wallen” is actually the oldest part of Amsterdam.  Of course, most of its old buildings, 13th century gothic church (‘Oude Kerk‘) and quaint canals are overshadowed by the aforementioned scantily-clad women in the red neon-lit windows, peep shows & sex shops. The rules of the district are strictly enforced (i.e. no pictures of the ladies), so make sure you behave…or are ninja stealthy! 😉

 

Casa Rosso – In the heart of the red light district, with an unmistakable huge pink elephant in its neon sign, it is the largest sex show venue in Amsterdam.  Admission is a bit pricey, but it usually includes drinks, and accessibility was decent too (when I went in 2004), though I did have to park myself off to the side of the main aisle. Shows last about an hour, then repeat, with acts ranging from striptease & raunchy comedic audience participation sketches (with props), to VERY choreographed (some might say robotic) live sex acts.  

    

“Coffee Shops/Cafés” – The majority are located in and around the city centre and again, it’s an old area, so accessibility is hit-and-miss.  I know that I was able to get into one of the Bulldog locations in the Red Light and the “420 Café”, on Oudebrugsteeg (a tiny street off of Damrak that looks more like an alley).  Washrooms weren’t accessible and the doorway was narrow, at 420 (there was also a bakery across from it, which suddenly seems like a god-send, after you leave ;).  Speaking of baked goods, if you do decide to partake in some ‘fun desserts’, remember to give it an hour or so to kick in, as it takes a lot longer than smoking (amount of food in your stomach will also play a part in onset, duration and effectiveness). 

Royal Palace – Located on the main street (Damrak) & next door to the 16th century ‘New Church‘, this former town hall was converted into a royal palace for the Napoleonic Empire, in 1808.  I haven’t been inside the palace, but tours are available, when there aren’t any royal functions going on.

Nieumarkt – Just east of the Red Light District, this square is popular with locals and tourists alike.  Several restaurants, coffee shops & cafés line the area – most noticeable is de Waag (built in 1488!) – which sits in the center of the square.  

Van Gogh Museum – Home of the largest collection of works by Vincent van Gogh. Mobility-impaired visitors have a separate, priority queue to get into the museum and if they’re travelling with a companion that person doesn’t have to pay admission!  There’s an elevator inside and small lift outside, plus accessible washrooms and features for visually-impaired guests too.  

Museumplein – The museum quarter is a big, public space and home to 3 of Amsterdam’s main museums (Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh & Stedelijk), a concert hall (Concertgebouw), and the ever-popular, tourist-y “I Amsterdam” sign.  

Vondelpark – A large, urban park that has an open-air theatre (in the summer months), ponds, playgrounds, and extensive paths for jogging or cycling. It’s only a few blocks away from Museumplein.  

Rembrandtplein – One of the busiest squares in the city, it is home to a vintage cinema (Pathé Tuschinski), many cafés, pubs & restaurants and is well known for its nightlife.  This was also where I first tried Indonesian food, at Pelangi – one of the square’s restaurants. Space was a bit tight and I believe there was one step to negotiate, but the food was decent…though maybe a bit pricey, since it’s frequented by tourists.   

Westerpark – Located in the west end of Amsterdam, this green space expanded after the gas plants in the area shut down and its buildings were re-purposed.  It’s now a cultural space with a theatre, stage, and event venues.  

Vlaamsch Broodhuys –  This bakery/diner was a great spot for having lunch!  The bread was (obviously) very fresh and tasty, as was everything else that went with it.  They say everything is locally grown and sourced.   

Manneken Pis – Home of the famous fries & Dutch mayo (though you can order different dipping sauces).  It’s a kiosk located on Damrak – the main street in Amsterdam – and you’ll likely see people lined up in front of it, or eating their fries at a standing table on the sidewalk (see pic below). Definitely worth a try, as their mayo is different than what we’re used to in N. America.

 

Pancakes & Waffles – Also located on Oudebrugsteeg (beside the 420 Café), this small, non-descript crêperie serves what North Americans would consider breakfast, all day long.  The difference is that Dutch pancakes (more like crêpes) can be served either sweet or savoury, and in the case of the latter, you can put things like ham & cheese on it (making it more like an unrolled wrap). Access wise, there’s 1 step up to get in and bathrooms aren’t accessible.  

 

Where I stayed (year):